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1 - Natural Slate: These slates are made from real shards of natural slate found in mountains quarried around England and further afield, with varying thicknesses depending on their origin. This is the most traditional type and one that offers superior performance when installed correctly; it’s also highly aesthetically pleasing and will aid you to create an individual look for your house or building exterior which makes these types of slate particularly popular amongst homeowners & consultants alike! 2 - Composite Slates: These versions provide all the same properties as natural slates but have been designed to be ultra-thin yet strong ensuring excellent waterproofing capabilities whilst remaining light enough not to require too much strengthening work during installation. They're available in various colours just like our range of other roofslate products so they can match any aesthetic requirements needed – perfect if you want something different that'll stand out against dull tiles! 3 - Synthetic/Plastic Slates : Similar to seamed metals - synthetic materials offer durability at an affordable price point making them great choices for those requiring more budget-friendly solutions offering approximately 50 year guarantee period dependent upon use/specification etc. Plus being incredibly lightweight compared to alternatives such as clay tile, some plastic options even feature integrated fastening systems meaning less time spent labouring on site installing ridge caps, eaves fixing battens down through underlayments before laying first course.
Step 1: Start by laying an underlay over the existing roof felt or wooden boards. Make sure that there is a slight dip in the middle so that water drains off correctly, and nail it securely at either end of the ridge-beam with nails about 50mm apart. Step 2: Place your pre-drilled slates along each side of the ridge beam overlapping 3 inches from both sides to form a V shape pattern on top. Use galvanized steel wire to secure them into place following instructions provided by manufacturer for how much tension should be used as this varies between manufacturers' products. Step3 : Apply tiles/slate sections below eaves. laid starting at lowest eave point going up towards highest level points using slate hooks notched through undersides stones attach stone tight against one another creating same v shaped Pattern followed when installing Ridge Tile above ensuring extra piece has been added underneath beams which completes alongside easily connecting with last section attached further down near Eaves Step 4 Nail batons around perimeter outlining structure where Slate have finished allowing you clip Slates onto Periodically keeping some excess material secured giving strength security long term resistance variable weather conditions Extend Batoning away Upwards till equal levels run along entire Roof before adding Hip Tiles finish look installation
1 - Begin by making sure the area around the old broken slate is clear of any other tiles or debris that may interfere with your replacement efforts. 2 - Remove a few rows of slates above and below where you need to replace, so there will be enough space for working as well as access to necessary tools underneath/around it once removed. 3 Underneath each corner ridge tile loosen nails from exisiting underlay using tin snips then slide out both top-slate and its nailer strip attached (if ond) 4 Turn up new lead sheet aligned with eaves edge then push down through joint fastening whole length gradually in place 5 Measure cut hole in center if slab fits neatley against existing roof line tuck into gaps between surrounding slats 6 Using Slate Ripper carefully remove existing slack off along side achieving an even gap all round 7 Finally hammer hand nailing holes at corners pushing home securely - Now job complete!
First, you will need to install an underlay before installing the roof slates. Once this is done, use a ridge tiles or eaves and fit them over the top of each slate in order for it to look neat and sealed off from external elements like rain water. Finally your natural roof slate setup should be finished off with some additional cement between joints if necessary, trowel sand etc.
Before installing man-made roof slate, the installation surface must be flat and level. The underlay is then laid first to protect the roof deck below from water damage. After that layer of flexibility has been added it's highly recommended eaves protection boards are installed as these help form a protective edge for any wind driven rain or snow penetration around skylights/chimneys etc. Next ridge tiles need to be placed by slots cut in mortar bedding along with valley gutter liners before starting covering with your chosen slates. Finally, stainless steel fixings should always be used when fixing Man made Roof Slates on Surrey roofs!
Firstly, the roof needs to be fully inspected and assessed before any recycled slate can be installed. As with all installations of new roofs or re-roofing projects, it is important that an underlay material like felt paper is first applied. This provides a strong barrier against water penetration which will protect your house from future damage caused by leaks in heavy rain conditions. After this process has been completed you should ensure there are eaves along the sides to prevent birds making gaps so they nest inside walls or behind tiles further down the line! Then comes fitting ridge and hip tiles around edges before finally adding slates overtop as required until complete coverage throughout. In conclusion, these necessary steps need to be carried out for every type of recycled roof slate project Surrey wide, regardless if old materials are being reused again with extra layers on top for increased protection - giving homeowners ultimate peace of mind.
Firstly, you need to make sure that your roof is suitable for the type of slate you have chosen. Slate will work better with certain types of rafter or truss systems than others, so it’s important to inform yourself about this before starting anything else. You'll also want to double-check that all components under and around the area - eaves, ridge tiles (at high point) etc., are in perfect condition. Once ready, start by laying a breathable felt membrane like torch on rubberized asphalt as an initial layer normally beneath even modern slates installations – use fixings such as nails/tacks at regular intervals along edges ensuring a tight fit over any surface irregularities using strong plastic strips if necessary between dissimilar surfaces allowing watertight seal eliminating air infiltration! Then begin with starter course which allows staggered entry facilitates correct coursing needed once progressively working up slope follows lastly drysheet layment directly above protects interior while providing ultimate weatherproofing finish worthwhile newly professionals erected client's abode optimal satisfaction greater assurance granted continual function safeguarded covered desired results achieved completed assignment fully considered task wholeheartedly concluded expertise evidenced.
In Surrey there are a number of different methods you can use to find out the pitch of your roof. The first is to measure directly from inside or outside using an inclinometer - this is considered one of the more accurate ways and will give you a very clear result. Alternatively, if it's easier in terms of access then measuring between two points on both sides or lengthways gives an indication too; shorter distances indicate higher angles and wider spans lower ones at either end – taken together they’re usually enough evidence to work out what kind of surface we’ For further accuracy, some specialists will even recommend sketching up high-level schematics so that all those involved in installation have clarity over measurements throughout the course of the job ahead!
In Surrey, the minimum recommended overlap for roof tiles is 10–15mm on the head lap and at least 25-30 mm nail to slate. Similarly with slates; for an eaves (lower edge) installation it should be a single course of overlay that does not exceed 60 mm in depth plus 15 - 20 overlapping courses; for ridge installations there needs to be two or three layers of underlay depending upon pitch/angle supplemented by four extremely close fitting end laps also using extra overlooks where necessary. For any detailing such as hips and valleys you need hand selected individual pieces which require removal first so they can sit perfectly together when re-installed providing additional security.
After the roof membrane has been rolled out, you will then need to lay your underlay. This should be fixed securely with nails around 10-15 cm apart and onto both trusses as well as into any eaves or gables for extra security. Next place your chosen tiles or slates on top of the prepared substrate, starting at one end and finishing near a main ridge point. If possible fix each tile/slate individually by hand nailing it directly through its centre to ensure added strength against high winds etc., using either universal clout nails (standard galvanised) if mortar bedding is permitted in that region OR stainless steel alloy clouts if not mortaredeeplybedded substrates are required (in many country / regional variations), depending upon local building codes & regulations. Ensure all slippery surfaces remain unobstructed so no water ponding may occur – this helps avoid unnecessary damage caused over time due to wind lifting floating slate roofing materials off their standing wall joints.
Step 1: Measure your roof to determine the spacing required between each batten. Step 2: Lay down a piece of underlayment, such as felt or membranes, onto the area where you plan to fit your slate tiles. This will help keep water out and protect any building materials underneath from moisture damage. Step 3- Place two full sized slates across a ridge with one placed at either end for support, then lay an eaves (or lath) tile in place so that it covers overhang edge of first slate. Securing this using galvanized nails if necessary. Step 4– Take measurements again, adjusting slightly if needed and remeasurements are important when laying Slate Tiles! Repeat steps three until all battens are adequately fitted into correct position – fix securely once setting has been achieved.
Start by laying the underlay, and then begin with slate tiles from one end of the roof. Carefully ensure that they align evenly at each ridge line to create a secure tile pattern Place an extra 4-5mm between slates along hip lines for accommodation in growth You will need to pay attention to which way you are facing as its important that all heading slope down towards gutters Finally once complete check again
1 - Firstly, check your roof for any signs of damage or deteriorated nails/screws and replace as necessary before beginning to install the slates. 2 - Measure out the area where you will place each slate tile using a measuring tape with an inclinometer attached - this ensures that all tiles are placed at the same angle and even distance apart up the slope of your roof structure so they adhere firmly in their new location without slipping off when exposed 3 - Place underlay between layers of boards on top decks prior to laying slates, ensuring there’s no trapped air underneath them which can cause water seepage over time via capillary action – make sure it overlaps lap joints too! If required then add some fibreglass insulation above this layer once nailed down securely but not directly against joists or rafters (will reduce heat loss from inside). Finally fit ‘ridge finials’ around edges pointing upwards purposefully designed specifically for protecting vulnerable areas like eaves & hip junctions etc.where pressure is greatest due structural weight settling years ago causing sagging issue if ever encountered…then use suitable fixings according enviromental standards achieving desired ventilation requirements throughout every aspect estimated maintainance cost along rising damp prevention treatments need henceforth satisfactory assurance longevity commitment being upheld entirely infinitely summary probably soundproofing integrated advanced phase availability insight having longlasting satisfaction enhancement alike thereafter sufficiently
1 - Start by making sure you have all of the necessary components: slates, ridge tiles, underlay and eaves protection. 2 - Lay a layer of roofing felt over the roof frame to create an effective moisture barrier between the slate and your structure. Once laid securely in place with nails or pins attach four pieces each side for better coverage if needed skirting back onto timber fixings where possible every 2 metres apart along overall length run as close up against edge runs clearance of framing such as valleys etcs should max be 16mm distance wise once again taking into account correct levels that are set out through measurements either externally taken when on scaffold/ladder +28degrees pitch average min 10 degree & no more than 45% falls need also borne well in mind while addressing rooftop span lenghts covered straights hips ungles free standing chimneys stacks stalks! Once everything is checked (twice) then its time to start nailing base tiling! 3 Undercut leading edge half round profiles before fixing them with 3x appropriate 74mm galvanised flat neck clout nails evenly spaced at 75-90 per meter squared equally(adjusted accordingly to profile type including hybrids examples angle vented crest embossed drips verges ventilating vents ) see photo evidences diagrams supplied products technical installation information leaflet from manufacturers ect . After fitting make sure there's sufficient expansion slack left around footing points - use dry silicon sealant droplets single drops spread evenly but not necessarily 100percent uniformly 4 mm gaps approx here counter cone /clout nail location corset overlap slope running jointing sealed support brackets were required small flying sills chamfers LAPEL Leading edges inspected stability tabbed! Finally Call upon yourself capable insurer fully experienced qualified master tradesmen local let him Have final inspection approved certificate clearly stating method product employed include stamped legality contract signed hand!
1 - First, find the damaged slate and remove it from its place on your roof by sliding a putty knife under it to loosen any cement or nails that are holding it in place. 2 - Place an underlay of felt between the new tile and existing tiles to protect against water damage before placing in position alongside other slates around eaves and ridge lines as appropriate using suitable fixings such as galvanized nails or screws that match up with pre-drilled holes in each one’s edge ( 3 - Finish off by adding some lead flashing at both ends along either side where there is no overlapping tiling adjacent – this covers up all gaps which helps keep out rainwater effectively whilst proving a neat overall look if desired!
1 - Inspect the roof first for any signs of damage or wear before attempting to walk on it. Pay special attention to compromised slates, unstable tiles and damaged underlay in areas near skylights, chimneys and valleys as these are usually more vulnerable spots than others. 2 - Wear rubber-soled shoes rather than boots when climbing a slate roof: this will help prevent you from slipping without damaging surfaces with sharp edges of steel toe caps that can chafe through fragile material underneath your feet such as eaves felt or underlying timber trusses/ 3 Put down protective layer - carpet squares works well – over larger sections which need less precision work but could still be prone to surface scratches due human error during walking around them; make sure all ridges are covered up at least insofar as possible while retaining flexibility by overlaying rough faced membrane matting over entire slab area so its pressure peaks provide extra grip & cushioning should uneven slope occurr unexpectedly within ridge angle changes going along valley line(s) etc. Once stepping starts place hands onto hips & practice standing upright like a tightrope artist, keeping left foot forward only very lightly touching pliable matt tiling strips; eschew heavy heel contact whenever possible. 4 - Move deliberately along the span avoiding sudden movements : keep basic posture balanced across whole expanse even though various terrace terrain may present some bumps& dips here and there especially close where gutter pipes draught air intake port egress points rivet themselves into riverside property lines. 5 Stop occasionally look back end check what trail was left behind gauge impressions versus flatness elsewhere palpate weather sealing layers diagnose resilience then position weight accordingly evaluating resultant density effect upon angled upper finishes including open ended verge locations plus further preventive maintenance features both above extended false hipsoil plateaus+ adjacent fascias whose cappings assist upwards stability nearby parapet walls 6 Finally stay aware orient yourself periodically towards 3rd Person view continuum reversing direction holding steady coursing integrity between multiple counterbalancing zones safeguard inner seal domain encompass broad cross sectional applications buttressing conjunctionality conservation
1 - Begin by constructing a suitable roof frame, making sure to adhere and support the roof with strong battens throughout. 2 - Place an appropriate underlay material over each rafter of your frame prior to lapping it up around the eaves edge as you go along. 3 - Gradually progress across the roof laying slate tiles beginning at one end until reaching either side of ridge tile placement in order for them both have equal size pieces left into which they may fit securely once placed against their jointing lines on opposite sides (i.e., cut slates) running down from ridgeline dipping towards apex – this helps give full watertight coverage fulfillment when done properly before finally referring back and completing other parts including valleys if any . 4 - After all that is finished, ensure checks are made, then secure nails through upper part only ‘tugging’ downward gently but tight enough so there isn't uplift or billowing later. Lastly, take pleasure in knowing a job well done!
In Surrey, there are a variety of choices when it comes to roofing underlayment. Common types include asphalt-saturated felt paper, rubberized membrane (like EPDM or synthetic), non-asphaltic options such as ice and water shields that offer better protection from extreme climates, plus metal flashings. These materials have different benefits but all help protect the slate tiles on your ridge by getting installed under them – usually below the eaves first before reaching up towards the peak where slates need extra support due to weather exposure. This helps ensure good waterproofing for your building, which is essential in keeping everything safe and dry!
1 - Before laying any new slates on a roof, an underlay must be fitted first to provide it with protection from the weather and thermal insulation. 2 - Inspect your existing ridge tiles for damage or missing pieces that should all be rectified before starting work on the slating. 3 - Choose good quality natural slate material in various thicknesses according to grade (R Excellence selection being best). 4 - Make sure eaves are correctly insulated as well, either by packing felt underneath wooden edges where possible or installing facia boards around wood fascia overhang section of footings. 5 - Advise customers who will use these materials about likely expansion/contraction movements when fitting them near metioned joints between separate pieces.
In Surrey, the most common type of slate is Collyweston natural or Raven Black. These are traditional roofing slates capable of lasting over a century with proper installation and maintenance. They provide an aesthetically pleasing finish to any property as well as excellent protection against water ingress on steep roofs where eaves are difficult to install without encroaching too much into living space areas such as bedrooms, bathrooms etc. Ravenshead premium grade 5 Edgworth Blue Slates are another popular choice if you require superior performance in extreme weather conditions while retaining its aesthetic qualities at a more up-market professionally finished appearance levels than other types available locally throughout England's South East including Kent, Sussex and Hampshire counties.
In Surrey, the slate head lap is determined by a combination of factors such as wind uplift and capillary action. For optimum results on low-pitched roofs in Surrey, it’s recommended to use an underlay before fixing tiles or slates onto battens below ridge level. The thickness should be equal too so that any variation between shadow joints will not create weak spots in the roof construction which could result in water ingress occurring over time. It's also important to note if eaves need cutting off after alocating your fixed installation gauge due to bedding otherwise this can affect water integrity from leaks at joins within valleys affected during rainfall events running down its surface area with no mitigation possible .The thickness specified for these areas varydepending upon how exposed they are – traditionally heavier type textures used offer more protection while lighter ones are better suited towards lessfrequent exposure angles when installing natural products like genuine hand cut stone slab Shropshire Blue S Honed & Chiseled Grey
Once you have graded and sorted your slates, the first step in roofing is to ensure that all eaves are clear of debris. This will make it easier when trying to secure ridge tiles later on. Once this has been confirmed, an underlay should be installed along with any support battens where necessary for added strength. After these steps have been done, natural slate can then be fixed into place using nails or screws before fitting the final ridge tile at either end of the roof slope reflecting safety regulations etc.
Surrey County Council recommends that natural roofing slates should be secured to the timber battens below with galvanised nails or special purpose screw fixings. The eaves, ridges and hips need additional security by using an underlay of bitumen felt along the edge; firstly secure this in place before fixing more slates on top. In areas where wind uplift could occur, a titanium penetrating strip is used at each end of every slate row across both sides of contact between tiles and timbers as further reinforcement/protection.
Roofers in Surrey recommend using eaves through the ridge ventilation for both cold and warm roofs, as this will provide a more efficient airflow. Additionally, underlay needs to be fitted first before any slates or tiles are secured on top of it - using slate hooks if possible. Also make sure that enough space is allowed between the roofing material and fascia boards so air can get into your loft area properly. Ventilation should always take precedence when looking at improving insulation levels without compromising its quality.
The first step in hook fixing is to install a layer of roofing underlay, which acts as an additional barrier against water leakage. This should extend no less than 300mm up the slope from each eaves and continue along the entire length of your ridge line. The slate hooks are then fixed on alternate courses with appropriate nails at 300-400mm centres for large slates (560 x 330mm) and 400-500nm if small ones are used (420x225cm). For smaller areas such as verges or valleys where two sets 55° clouts may be required per slate, these need to be spaced 150 -200 mm apart dependent upon pitch angle etc when using larger slates 500 x 250/300 sizes fitted widthways between jack rafters distance off board edges will also depend obviously on local prevailing winds!
Underlying the slates with an underlay is a first and essential step in creating a strong slate roof. Eaves need to be sealed around the perimeter of each course and tiles are needed beneath any ridge capping – both situated securely below any holing points set into each slate. As such, hand holing should only be considered when small amounts of slate require repair or repositioning for specific purposeful reasons; machine holders offer more accuracy over longer distances on larger roofs - wherever possible they should always take precedence.
2) Install new roof rafters and then lay down the underlay. Make sure all seams are taped tightly so there is a good seal against rainwater seeping in. 3) Fix permanent slates or tiles to the eaves of your shed with nails, overlaps should be minimum 12mm apart from each other for extra protection against moisture penetration. 4) Secure ridge-tiling across at least two courses after laying plain slate on both sides of it; this will give you better wind resistance and help prevent uplift forces lifting off your slates/tiles over time as well as general movement due to expansion/contraction caused by temperature change 5) Lastly, dress up any exposed felt edges with either battens or lead flashing (if necessary).
1 - Start by securing the ridge tiles and attaching felt underlay to cover the whole roof area, ensuring it is properly secured at cladding points such as hips or valleys. 2 - Once this base layer of waterproofing membrane has been laid, you need to install battens that will support each slate onto your Surrey building’s structure securely; make sure these are not too close together so they can be well-supported and secure when fixed in place with nails. 3 - Then proceed by adding a 5mm gap between your slates before fixing them into position on top of the previously installed mortar lines. Make sure all areas being tiled from one corner towards another have correct overlaps for additional strength & durability (each overlap should consist of 3-4 courses). 4 - Examine each row once complete to ensure every tile correctly interlocks. If any adjustments are necessary such as extending their depth slightly further down than usual then do so accordingly until everything sits flush with no movement when stepped upon or walked over.
Firstly, you’ll need to remove the existing slate (Slate X). To do this use a hammer and chisel or a specialist ‘slate ripper'. Then begin by checking that there is adequate underlayment beneath Slate Y. This material should be laid between each course of slates for extra durability. You will then nail in place with corrosion-resistant nails positioned every 6–8 inches along its eaves edge before fixing it securely into position above the eaves line on your roof ridge tiles at its top corner surepoints. make sure these points are counter sunk ensuring they sit flush Finally tile up using more galvanised nails if necessary completing the entire process making certain wet weather tightness has been ensured around all edges buttressing both sides resulting from installation.