1 - Remove any existing roofing material from the site. 2 - Check and make sure that your underlying boards are secure and free of holes or damage. 3 -Fix a line to ensure straight lines across the entire roof when fitting shingles - 50mm centres for each strip will provide accuracy here (this is also known as 'ridge detail'). 4 - Securely fix clout nails directed into wall ties at regular intervals, 600 – 800 mm apart, along all intersects between different planes on sloping surfaces areas of the deck surface using copper spring price or steel capped felt fixings; this is vital in ensuring firm adherence an effective water sealant system throughout installation process 5 Textiles ‘underlay’ need to be installed onto designated flat plane areas beneath chosen waterproof membrane before selecting type which matches climate requirements due protection against heat expansion/ contraction cycles related issues: temperature compatibility range Arctic Grade A Range should cover most domestic applications up 35°C* 6 Final task V-edge tiles should then be nailed securely,using short sharp galvanised headless clouts until these formseamless intermediate covering continuous strips parallel incoming weather conditions direct exposure area concerned
It is best to check with your local building inspector or contractor whether an underlay membrane should be used on your roof in Surrey. It might also depend on the type of materials you are using and how likely it is that there will be heavy rains for long periods of time, as well as other factors like deck condition. A good place to start would be checking online reviews and speaking directly with a qualified contractor who has experience working in this area before making any decisions about installing or replacing an underlay membrane.
Before you start laying the shingles, it is important to make sure that all of your tools and fixings are suitable for use in Surrey. You'll need a solid set of roofers nails/screws (Gauged Oval Fasteners such as Neutrik here) or clout nails where appropriate; galvanized flat bars, ridge capping sections, felt strips and valley liners according to what type of material you’re using; plus an underlay compatible with whatever covering system chosen. Make special consideration when ordering the fixings - they must be perfectly suited both load wise & size-wise because if not specified correctly can cause very serious damage which may suggest any part replaced through wear would not last as long as expected too so this should really be thought about before deciding on how many
Next, you will need to make sure the roof boards are secured in place. Look for any loose nails when making your inspection and ensure they have been hammered into their original position firmly. Secure new 50mm galvanised clout nails at 150 mm centres along each set of rafters. When laying shingles onto a bare deck board strip it must be done with care as otherwise nail heads may penetrate too deep which could affect water run-off issues down the line—use metal ridge detail strips across sections to help avoid this problem and use smaller head 40 or 45 degree angled clinch type sided drywall screws called ‘stitchers’ rather than long headed round wire Type 17 sharpened raggy ridging pins in order to secure through both sawtooth edges also if using weighted tiles such as slate or concrete . Also remember that all nailing should occur no greater than 75mm from the eaves edge underneath all shingle layers so there is a built-in windbarrier effect provided by these now working rows up further from where cladding had gone before protecting against sun damage. Finally, insert lead flashing around chimneys securely held throughout its length by appropriate stainless steel fixings which conforms local building regulations – this action usually completes most reroofing jobs perfectly – good luck!
Start by rolling out the detail strip beneath your roof, allowing for a 50mm overhang at the eaves. Then use 20mm clout nails to secure it in place on either side of your house and along the front and back verge lines respectively, making sure there’s around 150 mm between each nail head. Once this is done, ensure that you make strips across deeper section of surrey boards with nailed-in ridge tiles –starting from one edge all way through to other end–using appropriate size (50 or65 mm) durability-resistant pressure treated Wooden battens as per district’s building regulations; securing these both onto underside partof new felt membrane below planed timber rafters/purlins up above slope lineat approximately 800 - 900 centres spacing apart while meeting local authority requirementswithout skipping any steps during process. An additional measure should be taken whichis attaching two galvanised steel furring channels 50 mm wideonto both sides(East & West wall elevations) of base boarding followedby affixing single ply concrete slatesoverlap joint overlayingboard ensuringto fix them securely using waterproof stainless steelshingles fixed firmly into wood not less than 25mm deepwith Galvanized graphite coatingcapillary plugs countersinking every 75 x75mmsq intervals placedinside intersectionsaround perimeter edges joining Sides 1 & 2 -
Starting at the eaves of your roof, make sure you have a strip of 50mm centres before laying down ridge detail boards. Ensure that all boards are in line with each other so they form a square when viewed from above using either a spirit level or tape measurer and marker pen. Start by placing the first shingle in place on top of this board structure and use five clout nails (two end tabs & three mid-tab points). Then insert another row, alternating overlapping patterns between them as per manufacturer instructions - paying close attention to nailing spots for secure fitting around hammer detailing strips along sides too if applicable. If any additional trimming needs done then safely remove correct portion only with Stanley knife, keeping cut ends neat. Finally apply some adhesive prior to fixing into the verge section for added security and finish off the bottom course installation!
1 - Begin at the bottom of your roof and use 50mm clout nails to fix a detail strip across where you will be laying shingles later on. 2 - Make sure that when nailing down each tile, it overlaps its neighbouring tiles in order to ensure better protection for the whole area against water ingress and other possible damage causing elements such as wind or extreme temperatures. 3a Use an adhesive caulking gun with a J-Bead nozzle along all edges which structure contact points & underlay to ensure air tight seal and cut off any surplus material using a sharp knife. 3b Apply 2 generous lines of tiling mastic/tile glue spread along either side flanges (ensuring sufficient coverage) 4 Allow approximately 45 minutes for checking joints are fully dry before continuing work 5 Nail 40–50 mm felt nails near eaves line here nail must penetrate minimum 13 – 15 mm In concrete surfaces 6 Install additional vertical furring strips -aligned horizontally starting from Ridge Line going towardsof ridge fasciae 7 Place first row Of Fibre Cement Shingle Starter Course below Underfelt Layer followed by Half Roundsend caps 8 Locate enough number pales timber batten’s overhanging eaves extending upto25 cms 9 Now place fibre cement shingle course onto Battened Framework 10 Fix into position by way slating hammer & separate anti inflammatoriedglaves galvanised 62 type11 Into Concrete surfaces again sufficiently welldeep enough penetration purposes while mounturboard& board sheathingsubstrucPlywood boarding used 12 To make secure arrangement staple remaining rounds slate vents spacing uniformly centres 11 Flexible MicroVents installed through valleysallows Natural Attic Circulation occurreplacement HotAiredirect increase movement Heat Transfer throughout Roof Structure!Check properlyproper installation has been done
Once the initial courses of shingles are laid, fix each row with clout nails. Space them approximately 50mm apart and ensure that they penetrate through both layers at least 12mm into a solid roof deck or strip beneath and 20-25 mm when fixing directly to plank boards. Overlap each course with one tab before nailing in place for added stability across the roof surface. Finally, use ridge detail along the top line where two roofs meet alongside an additional single nail per piece of siding to complete your work securely!
Begin by removing any existing nails or stripping from the roof. Next, make sure your deck boards are securely nailed down using clout nails and ensure that you have a 50mm gap between them. Lay out underlay then secure with more ropes of wary lengths over each board to line across the whole roof. Begin at one end, nailing on shingle strips in small sections until it is complete - use 25 mm away. from edges when securing these into place for optimum stability and durability. Finally attach detail strip along ridge ensuring even overlap before fixing firmly with overlapping rows of tufts/nail propelling adhesive evenly spaced approximately 50mm centres apart; this will help ensure longevity!
It is recommended that shingles have an overhang of at least 1 inch to 1.5 inches from the drip edge in Surrey, Canada for optimal performance during strong winds or rainy weather conditions. If you are installing a drip edge flashing along your premises then you should provide an overhang of 0.5 inches to 0.75 inches for optimum results and protection against roof damage due to water seepage and wind uplift. Furthermore it would be best practice if all nails used were clout nails and evenly spaced with strips installed across the widths within 500mm centres using ridge detail boards beneath them; this will ensure proper support between fixing points while also ensuring minimum impact on wall structure below when driving nail heads into place - however use 50mm centered clips may prove preferential here depending upon specific circumstances / needs!
It depends on the application and preference. Hand nailing shingles generally provides a more secure finish than using a nail gun, as you can ensure that each fixing is placed correctly in line with manufacturers instructions and to ensure maximum grip of the nails into the roof deck boards beneath them. It also offers greater control over addition of additional strips or details across ridge lines if desired. However, hand-nailing may take longer, so it's important to consider how long your project will need before making a decision between two options.